When the EGM team assembled in Florence earlier this month, the focus was less on Cuban cigars and more on menswear. Pitti Uomo 101 was the inspiration for the trip, and the bulk of my first 2 days there was spent visiting brands, seeing presentations and soaking in as much of the show as possible. Once that whirlwind has subsided; once the peacocks have returned home, the brands have packed up and the fashion press have shifted to Milan, Florence remains one of the most stylish and picturesque places to spend a few January days. The winter sun, low in the Tuscan sky, bathes the city in a golden light which seems to add an extra ethereal beauty to this extraordinary, ancient city.
Much has been written about the tourist hotspots of Florence. The legendary art collections in the Uffizi Gallery, Galleria dell'Academia, and more; the utterly breath-taking Duomo; the 1000-year-old Ponte Vecchio which spans the Arno are all famous worldwide, and with good reason. They are all worth a visit – Michelangelo’s David is worth the trip on its own – but the true beauty of the city lies in her streets, in the hills and public gardens to the south of the river, and the seemingly endless collection of small trattorias and osterias which keep her people fed. I was lucky enough to spend the final 2 days of my visit strolling gently round the town, exploring as much of the centre as I could and smoking some fine cigars.
The Hoyo de Monterrey Petit Robusto by the Ponte Vecchio
Of course, while that low winter sun may be beautiful, it is not particularly warm. In the middle of the day, in a quiet piazza or by the banks of the river, January in northern Italy can feel like May in my native Scotland, but night falls quickly and temperatures follow suit. Most cigar enjoyment in Florence, as with the majority of European cities, is done outside. My choices, therefore, were shorter smokes which deliver flavour but don’t leave one out in the cold for too long. The Hoyo de Monterrey Petit Robusto is a prefect example: sweet and creamy at the outset, warming cedar and spice to the end, and around 35 minutes to smoke.
One of the most impressive views over the city is that from the Piazzale Michelangelo (main image). An early morning taxi ride took me through an affluent suburb of the city, past sprawling villas shielded by tall cypress trees, and up to the Abbazia di San Miniato al Monte. This church has been in position since the 11th century, and was the ideal starting point for a walk which quickly took me to the viewpoint in the Piazzale and then down the hillside through the Giardino delle Rose. January is still a bit early to see the full splendour of the garden but, with the sun shining and the air crisp, the route is an excellent way to see the quieter corners of the city. Upon reaching the Arno at the bottom of the hill, one can then continue along its banks and past the famous old bridges; Ponte alle Grazie, Ponte Vecchio, Ponte Santa Trinita all approach on the right before the Ponte alla Carraia bends the route back into the buzzing centre.
Right - The bustling streets of Florence. Left - the low sun elevates the details of the architecture.
Ponte alla Carraia is also a fine place to pause and plan the next phase of the day. Even in winter the sun beats down on it, the view to the east takes in the beauty of the other bridges further upstream, and the gelaterias and cafes at the southern end will provide a bit of sustenance while you check your itinerary and decide which part of the city to see next. Perhaps head to one of the many historic churches to marvel at the art and architecture inspired by the faith of Renaissance-era maestros, or visit the Mercato Centrale for some street food to refuel while watching the bustle of the clothing and food stalls which fill the area.
Jewellery designer Patricia Tsai enjoys a Trinidad Reyes while exploring Florence
The central area of the city is full of high-sided, narrow streets. Wandering through the twist and turns can easily leave one feeling lost, but luckily there are landmarks and monuments only a turn or 2 from almost anywhere to help get your bearings back. My own favourite spots in this area were Piazza della Signora – home to, and dominated by, the Palazzo Vecchio – and Piazza della Repubblica. I found myself at the latter every evening to enjoy a hot drink and a smoke at Caffè Gilli, but in the afternoons it is also a fine place to wile away some time with a cigar and a view of the shoppers of the city buzzing around the luxury retail in the area. My partner did exactly that on our last day, lighting up a Trinidad Reyes to fill 30 minutes with notes of leather and earth, coffee and pepper. The smallest of the Trinidad range is a fantastic way to bring a bit more strength to your cold weather outdoor smoke.
The Ramon Allones Small Club Corona at Piazza della Signora
Piazza della Signora is also a fantastic place to people-watch in the afternoons. The collection of statues in the south-east corner attracts observers through the day and night, while the mixture of high-end boutiques and restaurants along the north and west sides have a steady, and stylish, clientele from open to close. My own choice of smoke for a stop in this square was the Ramon Allones Small Club Corona: the notes of chocolate, cedar and spice warmed my palette perfectly in the dropping temperatures of the late afternoon and, like the Trinidad my partner chose, was an ideal way to deliver the trademark profile of a popular brand to a relatively short period of time. I can’t wait to go back in the summer, to enjoy the larger formats through the evening while the summer tourists flit by us.